Jambo Africa Online’s Publisher, SAUL MOLOBI, takes a sip on a Brunia Wine and experiences the literary potent depth of what the Chilean revolutionary bard, Pablo Neruda, really meant when he mused: “Day-colored wine, night-coloured wine, wine with purple feet or wine with topaz blood, wine, starry child of earth…”
After scouring the Cape Winelands in excess of two years and almost at the point of re-committing to the humdrum of city life, Brett and Wade Sander launched a last-ditch effort to transform the family dream into reality.
After an emotional rollercoaster of six months of intensive negotiations, Cold Mountain Vineyards was finally acquired by the Sander Family in September 2016.
The farm is located 17 km east of Stanford in a valley known as Sondagskloof, which drains westward into the Uilenkraal River. The surrounding topography rises to an altitude of 845 m whilst the highest point on the farm is 290 m.
With the exception of a sandstone hill, most of the farm is characterised by moderate slopes. The farm is bounded by the heights of the Koueberg Mountain range in the south and has the imposing Tafelberg on its northern boundary.
The farm stretches over 417Ha with 17 Ha of vineyards, 6 Ha under figs and 5 Ha of seasonal vegetables. The farm, as much of the Cape South Coast, is blessed with vast tracts of pristine fynbos which is home to a diversity of plant and animal species, including the rare Brunia Laevis, more commonly known as Silver Brunia which lends its name to our range of boutique wines.
Under the direction of Brett and Wade Sander, the family has transformed the farm into a mixed farming organic and biodynamic operation.
The process of conversion has come at significant cost, both in terms of reduced yields and expense, all in pursuit of developing and sustaining healthy living soils and the cultivation of fruit imbued with exceptional quality. Our mantra is outstanding wines require exceptional grapes.
The team: The Sander duo
Brett Sander
As an ardent proponent of organic production and Agroecology in South Africa Brett Sander has over the last decade developed, facilitated and managed numerous organic agricultural programs and projects with the aim of developing viable cooperative models in the South African context.
Soon after his return from London in 2011 he established the NGO, Afrivival and agricultural design and project management company Kanyekanye. Brett piloted and implemented numerous agricultural installations and community projects, including the development of a small holding in West Rand Gauteng which operated as an organic vegetable and herb supplier.
He also developed the consultancy component of the business. This experience laid the foundation for Brett to immerse himself in Organic and Biodynamic practices and he currently serves on the South African Organic Sector Organization (SAOSO) Board and leader in local organic certification (PGS).
The Cold Mountain Farm Cooperative and reimagined Brunia Wines brand is the culmination of this personal quest and aligned to the family ambition of establishing a boutique biodynamic winery producing quality cool climate wines which has now being realized.
The re-development of the farm, through the conversion to Organic and Biodynamic practices in the vineyard has been an arduous journey since the acquisition of the farm in 2016.
The transition from synthetic inputs to developing soil health and diversity has been both challenging and exhilarating. The qualitative results have been significant and a clear indication of the benefits which Organic and Biodynamic practices bring to viticulture.
The continuing farm and vineyard development coupled with diversification of farm activities is a calling, which Brett envisions as becoming a working model for sustainable development through agroecology and a demonstration of achieving a more holistic and self-sustaining farm ecosystem.
Wade Sander
At an early age, Wade developed a keen interest in fine food and wine influenced and encouraged by his parents.
On occasion his interest in wine in particular, raised a concerned eyebrow from perturbed primary school teachers. The general expectation was that this was an adolescent fad and that a more conventional career beckoned.
Notwithstanding some subtle and then less subtle persuasion he followed his passion and after matriculating, left the city to pursue his wine making dream in the Cape.
He enrolled at Elsenburg Agricultural College in 2010, and after graduating joined the CWG internship programme working with the likes of Le Riche and Bouchard Finlayson whilst also completing two international harvests in Edna Valley, USA and a very influential apprenticeship in the Loire Valley, with Thierry Germaine of Domaine De Roche Neuves.
Wade joined the Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines in 2015 in his final year of internship, and was appointed as an associate winemaker.
The relationship with the Mullineux’s lasted six vintages and was instrumental in the development of his winemaking philosophy. The time there exposed and presented him with the opportunity to explore and experiment with natural wine making techniques and enhanced his perception of fine wine. The development of the Leeu Passant brand was also a valuable learning curve and provided an ideal environment in which to hone his craft.
A harvest trip to Jura in 2018 at Domaine de la Tournelle served as a catalyst and prompted a desire to pursue the Brunia Wines project in Sondagskloof full time.
“I was inspired by the old fashioned vigneron culture still prevalent in Jura”. Wade joined Cold Mountain Vineyards on a full time basis in July 2020, to take up a more central role in the viticulture and winemaking operations.
Cold Mountain and its Winemaking suitability
Cold Mountain Vineyards is located in the relatively new ward of Sondagskloof, within the region of Walker Bay. This is a cool climate winemaking region, much like the greater Cape South Coast Area.
Generally, this is defined as having moderate temperatures within the growing season, and higher than average rainfall compared to regions such as Stellenbosch and Swartland. Additionally we have a maritime influence due to the close proximity to the ocean, and hence also benefit from the cooling winds off the ocean.
The combination of the above factors results in a longer growing season, allowing the grapes to reach true maturity, whilst also retaining acid and freshness in the wines. This in turn gives the wines an elegance in youth but also the ability to age.
The farm is planted to cultivars that are best suited to this environment, namely Sauvignon Blanc (11Ha), Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sémillon and Syrah (approx. 1.5Ha). Whilst the Sauvignon Blanc grapes are the oldest grapes on the farm, we are seeing real potential in the younger Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines.
Soil Types
The soil types are noticeably varied with decomposed granite and quartz/sandstone being the more dominant. Interestingly the farm has lines of Limestone/Chalk which is especially significant for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Farming Practices and Viticulture
We not only believe in sustainable practices that take into account the holistic health of the farm organism, but also which improve the quality of the produce on the farm on a continuous basis.
Essential elements of our viticulture practices include cover cropping, mulching and composting.
All our vines are trellised (on a wire system, no bush vines) and are spur pruned.
Average age of the vines range from 12 to 15 years.
Some of the brands in the Brunia wine range
2017 Pinot Noir
Source of Grapes
Grapes for 2017 Pinot Noir, were sourced from single vineyard parcel of sustainably farmed 9 year old vines grown on quartz based soils which contain limestone. The vineyard is situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa.
This parcel gives a taut, mineral expression of Pinot Noir with a bright acidity, which lends tension and ageability to the wines.
Date of Harvest
Grapes were harvested on 7 February 2017.
Winemaking
Grapes were picked in the early hours to ensure favourable temperatures. The grapes were processed to open top fermenters, 30% whole bunch was employed for perfume and structure, while the remaining 70% was destemmed on top.
Minimal SO2 is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. The must is initially pumped over for homogenization, thereafter punch downs are employed 1 – 2 times per day for extraction. Maceration generally last 14 days, after which the wines are pressed to barrel for natural malolactic fermentation.
The wine is racked and sulphured in late winter and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling.
Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Maturation
Aged for 10 months in French Oak 228L barrels. No new oak.
Awards and Accolades
90/100 Tim Atkin
2018 Brunia Sémillon
Source of Grapes
Grapes for 2018, were sourced from single vineyard parcel of sustainably farmed 11 year old vines grown on granitic soils.
The vineyard is situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This parcel gives a bright, mineral expression of Semillon with a coated acidity.
Date of Harvest
Grapes were harvested on 22 February 2018.
Winemaking
Whole bunch pressing was employed, and the must was settled overnight. Minimal sulphur is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast.
No further additions are made. At the first sign of fermentation the juice is racked to neutral barrels where it will complete fermentation. Fermentation generally lasts 14 – 18 days after which the barrels are topped up, natural malolactic fermentation is encouraged. Once stable, the wines are topped regularly and aged on the fermentation lees for a further 10 months.
The wine is racked and sulphured in November and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling. Wines are bottled unfiltered.
Maturation
Aged for 12 months in French Oak 228L barrels. No new oak.
Awards and Accolades
92/100: Tim Atkin
2018 Brunia Syrah
Source of Grapes
Grapes for the 2018 Syrah, were sourced from single vineyard parcel of sustainably farmed 12 year old vines grown on granitic soils. The vineyard is situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This parcel gives a classic expression of Syrah, with typical pepper and clove aromas. This is a very textured wine with fresh tannins and great length.
Date of Harvest
Grapes were harvested on 14 March 2018
Winemaking
The grapes were processed to open top fermenters, 40% whole bunch was employed for perfume and structure, while the remaining 60% was destemmed on top. Minimal sulphur is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. The must is initially pumped over for homogenization, thereafter punch downs are employed 1 – 2 times per day for extraction. Maceration generally last 21 days, after which the wines are pressed to barrel for natural malolactic fermentation. The wine is racked and sulphured in late winter and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling.
Wines are bottled unfiltered.
Maturation
Aged for 10 months in French Oak 228L barrels. No new oak.
Awards and Accolades
90/100 Tim Atkin.
2018 Brunia White
Source of Grapes
The Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from a 13 year old vineyard parcel and the Semillon from a 11 year old vineyard both grown on granitic soils. The vineyards are situated in the cool climate region of Sondagskloof on the south coast of South Africa. This is a linear expression of this classic white varietal blend, with an energetic acidity and chiseled structure, possesses great ageing potential.
Date of Harvest
The Sauvignon Blanc was harvested on the 26th February 2018 and the Semillon on 5 March 2018
Winemaking
The cultivars were picked and fermented separately. Whole bunch pressing was employed, and the must was settled overnight. Minimal sulphur is added at crush as to encourage natural fermentation from the indigenous yeast. No further additions are made. At the first sign of fermentation the juice is racked to barrels where it will complete fermentation. Fermentation generally lasts 14 – 18 days after which the barrels are topped up, natural malolactic fermentation is encouraged. Once stable, the wines are topped regularly and aged on the fermentation lees for a further 10 months. The wine is racked and blended in November and then put back to barrel for maturation until bottling. Wines are bottled unfiltered.
Maturation
Aged for 12 months in French Oak 228L barrels. 25%
Awards and Accolades
92/100 Tim Atkin
Here are the contact details of Brunia Wines:
Cold Mountain farm,
Sandies Glen Road, Stanford,
7210
Phone:
+27 28 341 0432
E-mail:
info@bruniawines.co.za